Lazy Day (+ tsunami update)

First and foremost, the tsunami has had no impact on us down in Bali, we are safe and sound.  We are on the southern coast of an Indian Ocean island, with numerous land masses between us and the Pacific.  We understand that Hawaii was hit, but damage was minimal and everyone is generally just fine.  Please send your thoughts and prayers to our friends down on the Kiribati Atolls, where the high point of the islands is a mere 5ft above sea level.  We have no idea how they fared, I hope to hear from them soon.  And of course to everyone in Japan and the rest of the Pacific.

The wet season has been wet thus far.  Each night we fall asleep to thunder and lightning and torrential downpours.  Up until today (Saturday) it has been dry and sunny throughout the day.  We have spent the last couple afternoons exploring on the scooter.  We are now thoroughly familiar with the Bukit peninsula.  Whoever said Bali was only the land of the lefts is certainly mistaken.  We have found more rights than lefts this week, many of which I never knew existed.  Uluwatu, Padang, etc. have generally been small and windy (although U’i got one really good glassy day).  The east side and south side with eastern exposures have been very good.  We finally found Greenballs, at the bottom of a long staircase sits an aquamarine channel flanked by two reefs.  A hollow left, and a long right wall.  They get good as the tide drops, and handle the winds better than the west coast.  U'i jumped in on the right and got some fun ones.  

 The beach at Greenballs

A smaller day showing the setup

After the wind picked up, but still good.

We began driving down long dirt and gravel roads to the east of Greenballs.  One took us through an abandoned quarry and down to a seaweed farm.  A number of waves were at the bottom.  There were a good 15 guys out, most of them killing it hard – obviously the “secret” spots that locals flocked to when the crowds got heavy elsewhere.  We ventured further down the dirt roads, taking side paths that ran south down the cliff (each of these represents about a 20 minute ordeal).  Every one that we tried revealed bigger and more remote right breaks.  Some shallow reefs, some points.  The last one looked pretty heavy, would like to return when I’m back in the water.  I have never seen a name for any of them, and they are just as good as Ulu’s, Impossibles, Bingin, etc. on an average day.

We also made it over to Nusa Dua, which reminds me of Hawaii Kai, but with actual consistent waves.  I counted at least 8 defined right peaks, long walls with barrels we could see over a mile away.  The breaks are far out on a fringe reef, much like Toes, Secrets and Snipes, and were forming like HK on its best kona wind days.  Sanur we are told, is home to even better right breaks.  We have yet to head up to Canggu, which we are told has been stellar as well lately.  Keramas has been decent, as has Medewi before the wind picked up. 

I finally decided on boards.  After looking through a number of shops, which had decent boards from familiar shapers, I was hesitant to pay $300 for a used stick, or $600 for a new one (or $1000 for a Resin 8).  I met up with Bruce Hansel, a shaper I heard about back in Hawaii.  He lived in Waialua (oahu) for years and began his career shaping for Country Surfboards.  He grew up with all the heavy hitters on the north shore when it comes to shaping.  12 years ago he moved to Bali and opened a custom board shop where he services many of the locals, some of the Brazilians, and many traveling Hawaiian’s.  He is Bali’s official shaper for Bushman and I believe Minami.  He is close with Wade (Tokoro) and knows his designs as well.  Bruce, like Wade, Bushman and others, began using a shaping machine a number of years back.  He has Bushman’s and Tokoros board shape programs.  I also found out that Tokoros are shipped out of Hawaii and glassed out here , there is a factory near Uluwatu.  I told Bruce about a couple Tokoro models that worked for me back home, and he said he would make them, but slightly modified for Bali’s reefs.  It’s this local knowledge that sold me, that and the price.  I ended up getting a 5’11” dumpster, modeled after the X1, a 6’2” shortboard, modeled after the “6”, and a 6’8” round pin modeled after the “5”.  Now I just need to figure out how to get these boards around with me.  There are very cheap custom board bag shops around here I will check out soon.  The boards should be done next week, perfect timing to let me continue healing.  I started stretches and light exercise and while the ribs are still sore, I’m feeling stronger – a huge relief.  The season’s first big swell is due to start hitting tomorrow, and should go for a while.  We hope the winds and rain dies down some so we can get a few days at Ulus, but if not, plenty of other options.

Wet season makes for some really big mosquitoes!  No worries, no malaria or dengue....

Today has been a lazy relaxing day.  It finally stopped raining about an hour ago.  I’m close to finishing the book I’m currently working on, called Theft by Peter Carey.  Pretty good book considering the subject matter.  Look it up if you’re interested.  Next on the list is The Chosen, by Chaim Potok – surprised I haven’t read it yet.  Then on to Mark Twain’s The Innocents Abroad (mahalos Jim Johnson). 

U’I has been eating, napping and watching $0.80 pirated DVD’s.  We needed a day off the scooter after the 5 hour tour yesterday.  Speaking of scooters, the one we got is way too much fun with only one person.  It’s a newer 125cc model that goes 160kmh.  I’ve gotten it up there on some of the back roads (by myself everyone….by myself - and with a good helmet).  Our neighbor has a brand new Yamaha Supermoto I have my eye on.  It is throaty and well equipped.  I won’t tell you its top end speed, ‘cause I know mom will read this eventually.

Our daily fruit salad (melon, watermelon, banana, pineapple)

Also, I added a few new videos to the video bar on the right side of the blog.  They should be available for viewing soon.

Signing off for today.  All our best.  Ry + U’i