The Balinese people who live on the Bukit peninsula have the warmest smiles, and happiest dispositions. After such a heart-wrenching and challenging experience in the Philippines, it’s been such a breath of sweet air, literally, to feel at ease about so many things, like having less grip on our personal items. As I’ve noticed on our scooter travels around the Bukit peninsula, the majority of the people live quite simply as humble farmers of seaweed or vegetables. Many fresh vegetable stands line the streets. We often pass by small food carts which are barbequing scrumptious chicken skewers, known as satays. There are a number of small stands directly outside of family homes that sell small quantities of petrol for scooters (always in glass Absolute Vodka bottles) and offer a variation of snacks to make a few extra rupiah. Parents get their children ready in the morning for school, dressing them in a different colored uniform for each day of the week. Monday is red, Tuesday is blue, Wednesday is brown. Wealthier Balinese have a land base where they construct their home and several other smaller cottages that surround the property to provide for guests. These are called Homestays, which Ry and I are residing in. Other Balinese families have established their own Warungs, or restaurants that provide simple Indonesian delicacies like Nasi Gurang (fried rice with choysum and an egg) or hot black rice pudding covered in cream. The Warungs have their own take on Western classics like the “Beef burger,” with avocado, sweet tomatoes, a slice of cheese, and fresh, crisp lettuce and “Spaghetti Padang-Padang,” which is angel hair pasta covered in a butter cream sauce, slices of fresh ham, and mushrooms. The prices at the Warungs are relatively cheap. A whole bowl of spaghetti was $3.00 - 4.00 USD, and in the United States, the same bowl would be close to $10.00 USD. Almost all Balinese are dedicated Hindus, placing offerings several times a day outside of the steps of their homes or on homemade constructed alters with utmost perfection. Their offerings symbolize the connection to the land and the elements of nature to ensure the balance of life. Quite remarkable actually. The diverse colors of flora and fauna in one offering to the array of fruits (banana, dragon fruit, tangarines, apples) in another are so different and unique. It is a cultural practice that has occurred through the generations and all respect the religious protocol in everyday practice and also in the larger ceremonies. In fact, Ry and I missed a very important festival here in Bali by one week, although remnants of the ceremony are apparent in the large colorful floats that line the roads around the peninsula. Some are a bit frightening, but they are all telling a special story.
A little on surf:
A multitude of orange and white monarch butterflies crowded the abundant purple crown flowers that lined the cement block road that led to a “more secret” left-hander near Greenballs. It wasn’t as “secret” as we thought. There was a very close knit group of surfers crowding one peak. Ry and I spent about half a day finding different spots as mentioned in our previous blog. Out in the water on a windier 2-3 ft. day, Greenballs felt a little like Cliffs at Diamondhead. As the water receded with the tide, the reef felt more like lowtide at any of the Ala Moana spots. Later on in the week, Ry and I went back to check this same spot. As we peered down the cliff, the sets seemed to have tripled in size. Walking down the 500+ steps and looking out into the surf at a better level, Ry and I were amazed to find heavy glassy, peeling 6ft. right-handers. It reminded Ryan and I of Quarries, Mokulei’ia North Shore with its little sections and fast bending wall. The river current on the inside was like Himalayas, North Shore, not something to get caught in. It just killed Ryan to watch these beautiful sets roll in as just a handful of surfers rotated turns catching the ride of their lives. The left side of Greenballs looked a little more mushy than the right, but of course still had major size. I definitely wasn’t going out.
Later on in the day, after the rain subsided I asked Ry to go back to Nusa Dua. His board shaper told us of a much mellower break called “Black Stone.” It was a re-form on the inside near the beach that was supposedly quite fun. Making the trek back to Nusa Dua wasn’t as long this time since we didn’t go off path to find other surf breaks. Weaving in and out of traffic to Nusa Dua with the scooter caused me to be a nervous wreck, but Ryan is becoming well acclimated to the Bali traffic, and so I knew we would make it in one piece. We finally made it safely to the entrance of Gaiger beach. No wind on the east side of the peninsula! Peering out into the distance were giant peeling right-handers, I would say 6-8 ft Hawaiian. Boats on the inside were gearing up to take surfers to the outside breaks. “I could just paddle out there, it’s any further than Hawaii Kai,” Ryan exclaimed. I just looked at him and said, “Um…it looks pretty far Ryan, plus paddling through that white water?” He finally did agree as he saw the boats whip way around the fringe of the reef and take the surfers to the peak of their choice. The outside Nusa Dua break had a paddle and reef much like Hawaii Kai, but a wave heavy like North Shore. Heading down to the left of the beach, there was a channel where a surfer was paddling back in. “That’s where I would paddle out,” Ry said. I agreed with him since that particular right-hander didn’t look as far. At the very end of the beach to the left side there was an inside break. It wasn’t a sandy break as Ry’s shaper explained to us earlier, but an outside reef break, with little pealing lefts. The waves were a perfect head-high, glassy, and produced little barrels. The line-up was crowded, but the crowd was really nice and not super intense. The waves definitely reminded me of a mix of low-tide Ala Moana breaks, with a nice bend and curl. Hard to describe…I had a lot of fun and was glad to find something more manageable, when Ry will be in the more heavier stuff.
Swimming on a quiet sandy beach, south cost
Later on in the day, after the rain subsided I asked Ry to go back to Nusa Dua. His board shaper told us of a much mellower break called “Black Stone.” It was a re-form on the inside near the beach that was supposedly quite fun. Making the trek back to Nusa Dua wasn’t as long this time since we didn’t go off path to find other surf breaks. Weaving in and out of traffic to Nusa Dua with the scooter caused me to be a nervous wreck, but Ryan is becoming well acclimated to the Bali traffic, and so I knew we would make it in one piece. We finally made it safely to the entrance of Gaiger beach. No wind on the east side of the peninsula! Peering out into the distance were giant peeling right-handers, I would say 6-8 ft Hawaiian. Boats on the inside were gearing up to take surfers to the outside breaks. “I could just paddle out there, it’s any further than Hawaii Kai,” Ryan exclaimed. I just looked at him and said, “Um…it looks pretty far Ryan, plus paddling through that white water?” He finally did agree as he saw the boats whip way around the fringe of the reef and take the surfers to the peak of their choice. The outside Nusa Dua break had a paddle and reef much like Hawaii Kai, but a wave heavy like North Shore. Heading down to the left of the beach, there was a channel where a surfer was paddling back in. “That’s where I would paddle out,” Ry said. I agreed with him since that particular right-hander didn’t look as far. At the very end of the beach to the left side there was an inside break. It wasn’t a sandy break as Ry’s shaper explained to us earlier, but an outside reef break, with little pealing lefts. The waves were a perfect head-high, glassy, and produced little barrels. The line-up was crowded, but the crowd was really nice and not super intense. The waves definitely reminded me of a mix of low-tide Ala Moana breaks, with a nice bend and curl. Hard to describe…I had a lot of fun and was glad to find something more manageable, when Ry will be in the more heavier stuff.
Ry’s rib is still not feeling up to par to get back into surf. I’m praying that soon he will be able to get into the water, but I am immensely enjoying this time together.
We’re going to head to the “Museum Pacifika” today out at Nusa Dua. I’m very interested in what types of artifacts there are in the Museum. Will it be similar to Polynesia? If we look back in history far enough Polynesians migrated from this very area, Melanesia. Our linguistic grouping from Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia come from the Austronesian line. Preparations of foods both in the Philippines and in Indonesia are very similar to Polynesian styles with the use of steaming and “grilling” with banana leaves and the use of coconut milk in various dishes. Here in Indonesia as well as in the Philippines and Singapore, I have noticed an array of plants also found in Hawaii.
Noni : Indonesia
‘Olena with beautiful blossoms: Philippines
Pohuehue growing on beach: Philippines, Indonesia
A variety of Koa, sickle shaped leaves, yellow flowers, no seed pods that I found: Indonesia
Wauke to make kapa: Indonesia
Haui/ ouwi: Indonesia (hardier/dense leaves, probably the medicinal one)
Crown flower along with white and orange monarch butterflies: seaweed farm Indonesia
‘Ohai ali’i flowers, yellow and red/orange: Philippines, Indonesia
Hapu’u fern: Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore (airport)
Mai’a (banana): Philippines, Indonesia
Niu (coconut), bright orange when young, off yellow when mature: Philippines, Indonesia
‘Ulu (breadfruit): Philippines
Kalo (4 varieties so far), Gabi in Filipino language: Philippines, Indonesia
‘Ape: Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore
Hao bushes, both varieties, green and multi-colored: Indonesia
Naupaka: Indonesia
Lauhala, hala: Philippines, Indonesia
Milo: Indonesia
I am quite amazed. Many medicinal plants here like the haui grows abundantly. Will continue to research what I can about this very unique place!
Alohas-
U’i and Ry
Ahhh...so cute :) Get better Ryan!!
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