June 8
Day – Ui’s Hawaii Birthday, epic Hike / Surf Cook’s Cove
Night – Tolaga Bay Holiday Park
The morning brought a striking sunrise. Colors across the sky were a deep orange that reflected off of the ocean. I knew from the morning that this was indeed a very sacred place. Ryan and I decided to take a walk along the wharf, where old train tracks still remained. It was used to carry cargo to and from the docked ships in earlier times. Ryan and I went to view the waves coming into the bay along the wharf. Tide was high and so we decided to wait for the afternoon to surf. In the mean time the four of us decided to visit the town’s i-site where there was free internet. That is where we met a man named Nikora Curtis. A very kind, humble, Maori whose spirit and energy drew our attention immediately. He had created his own radio broadcast station called UAWA FM and volunteered everyday to keep the radio station active. He invited the four of us “Hawaiians” to join him in a special radio broadcast the next day.
After the internet use, we headed back to the holiday park to gear up for an afternoon surf. The holiday park manager mentioned that it would be better to hike the Cook Cove’s trail, which was a 50 minute hike over steep hills and pasture lands to reach a secluded cove on the backside of the peninsula. After suiting up in our wetsuits we made the trek along the Cook’s Cove hiking trail. Historically Captain Cook landed at Tolaga in 1769 and had brought his entire ship into the cove during the high tide to apparently lay his boat on the side for cleaning. There were many Maori families living at Tolaga (traditional name Uawa) at the time of Cook’s arrival and many more during pre-contact times. Maori had settled there in the early part of the 1300’s and it was the oldest Maori settlement on the east side of New Zealand. The hike had a 20 minute incline through heaps of muddy grass and a 25 minute decline through a forest. It was a very intense walk through pasture land, cow-pies, mud and a thick, dense forest. It really reminded me of movie scenes in the Lord of the Rings. And straight out of Endless Summer.
Swells were rolling into the Bay. Cooks Cove is beyond the point in the distance.
The waves are faint in this zoomed in photo from the end of the pier.
Starting our trek up the mountain, not sure what's waiting ahead
Our first glimpse of Uawa Town (Tolaga Bay)
Making our way above the cliffside
Crossing an upper pasture fence
At the top of the incline there was a view of the wave lines coming into the bay creating beautiful point breaks, the top most being where the waves were the biggest. We would have to paddle out and around through Cook’s cove at the end of the hike to reach that particular break and either paddle back to shore or hike back to the holiday park in the dark since it was the later part of the afternoon. Before we reached Cook’s cove, we ventured to a place called the “Hole in the Wall.” Literally it was a hole in the wall…well the cliff had an unusual hole that had developed over years of erosion.
Halfway there, Cooks Cove is visible in the center of the photo
At the bottom of the trail is the infamous "Hole in the Wall"
Stepping through the hole reveals the cliffs and wharf in the distance
JV and a little Photoshop
After leaving the hole in the wall we continued another 5 mins across the pastureland to Cook’s Cove. The tide was very low and so we walked the entire cove until we reached the point, near to where the waves were. There were two islands in close proximity to the cove, one was named Mitre island and the other was a “private” island owned by a Frenchman. How he was able to acquire the island…the Maori still are not sure to this day. (We would kayak there at a later time). There were samples of waves wrapping around the different islands, the best at that time being the one around the corner of the cove. Ryan, Jason and I were unsure of how the wave was going to be. From shore, it seemed to be a bit choppy and a good head high, but as soon as we paddled out, the waves turned to glass and doubled in size. I remained on the shoulder for a while, watching the wave as Ryan and Jason paddled into some overhead bombs. The waves eventually crashed right against the side of the cliff and was a bit terrifying if caught on the inside. I finally built up the courage and paddled over near Ryan and Jason…my greatest fear was getting slammed into the sharp crevices of the cliff. My first wave was an intense, steep, right drop and I held on to my body board very tightly, almost feeling a bit out of control. The wave face opened up and it was such a beautiful ride! Who knew we would find such a remote gem…after a long 40 minute hike…a very spiritual session.
Walking through Cooks Cove at low tide
Our first glimpse revealed waves, although windy and only head high...but it would get better
JV tearing it up
Ryan dropping, JV heading out, U'i paddling to the peak
An awesome shot of Tolaga Bay - Thanks Hil!
Soon however, the sun was making it’s descent behind the mountains and only a faint light was beginning to linger over the ocean. I hinted to Ry that it was time to either paddle or make the hike back to the holiday park. Out of fear of getting stuck in the woods in the dark, with temperatures dropping to 40F at sunset, we decided to make the incredibly long, eerie paddle back to shore. The journey took us next to very steep cliffs, through thick seaweed, and across random, bulging reefs that emerged from the water. I unfortunately began to get caught in the current moving out and at times found myself to be quite far from land…a scary feeling indeed…as darkness crept over us. The wharf began to look closer and closer. After 45 minutes of strenuous, constant paddling, we neared the beach break. The only way in was to catch a wave that was breaking along the wharf. Ryan made sure that I had made it safely because it was getting very dark and there was a looming cave along the side of the beach break…he was my eyes in the darkness. We all eventually made it back to shore…it being the longest paddle of our lives and the longest ride in to the beach! Hot showers were only a short walk away. Hilary was waiting patiently for us on the dock, to make sure we had made it safely. I’d have to say, it was one of the most powerful experiences of my life, witnessing the raw beauty of the ocean and the cliffs…a thankfulness to be alive and safe was felt by all that day as we hugged and hi-fived each other in an ultimate feeling of relief.
After a 45 minute paddle, we hit the sand in the dark, stoked.
No comments:
Post a Comment